Any man can wear a suit, but not every man can wear it well. Throwing together your look is a little more complicated than finding a tie to compliment your dress shirt. Knowing how to wear different choices of suits is a sign of a conscientious and refined mind.
Here’s are the guidelines you need to follow to rock your suit, every time.
1) Button Law
There’s a lot of confusion about buttons, and we’re here to clear it up. The bottom button of your jacket – no matter what kind of jacket – should always be unbuttoned. The jacket is not tailored to actually have the bottom button done up; it’s mostly there for decoration. And you should unbutton all the buttons when you sit down so the jacket hangs properly. Your shirt is another story. All the buttons should be done up all the time. Even that top button.
2) Pants Should Fit
This may seem like an obvious rule, but if you look around, you’ll see that it’s not the case. You don’t want your pants too big or too small, and there are also considerations of length. The hem should rest on the top of your shoes. Any longer and they will bunch up. Any shorter and you’ll be showing sock. Neither is a good look.
3) Jacket Fitting
Suit jacket fitting is an art and a science. The shoulders of the jacket shouldn’t extend beyond your own shoulders and the collar should align with the collar of your shirt – no gapping. Also make sure you cut the threads on pockets and vents so the jacket falls the way it was designed to.
The sleeves of your jacket should be around half an inch shorter than your shirt sleeves, and your shirt cuffs should not extend beyond your wrist. This will keep your look streamlined and crisp.
Your shoes and belt should be the same colour, so no wearing a red belt with brown shoes. Keeping these shades in-synch will help pull together your look. You should also ensure your shoes compliment your suit. For instance, wearing brown shoes with a black suit isn’t going to fly, but you could wear navy blue shoes with a grey suit. And it should go without saying that dress shoes are a must, so save your trainers for a less formal occasion.
Another consideration: if you wear suspenders, don’t wear a belt. And for the love of Hugo Boss, don’t wear a sport watch with a suit.
You want your socks to go up your calf so that people aren’t confronted with a swath of leg hair every time you sit down. Also, try to have the colour of your socks match – or at least compliment – your suit. No white socks and black suits, gentlemen!
Wonky tie lengths are a global epidemic, but one that’s easily remedied. Here’s the rule: your tie should end at or just before your belt. No higher, no lower. Simple. When it comes to knots, try to keep the size moderate. You don’t want it looking big and chunky or tight and pinched.
If you’re sporting a three piece suit, make sure your waistcoat offers a snug (but not suffocating) fit. It should finish just below or at your belt, and the end of your tie should not be visible poking out the bottom.
And there you have it! 8 easy rules to keep your looking sharp, sleek and sexy as hell.